I’m following Alice Eshelman through a rural patchwork quilt of squares dotted with country cemeteries, barns and even Victorian era manses to her Heritage Farms, located about six miles from Roanoke in Northeastern Indiana.
Eshelman is the type of woman who takes her food so seriously that she was excited when her husband, Pete, gave her 40 Angus cows impregnated by Wagyu bulls for her 50th birthday. No diamonds and Mediterranean cruises for this gal.
“I knew Pete was getting them for me,” says Eshelman, who with her husband, owns Joseph Decuis (pronounced Day Kweeze) a high end restaurant in the charming but tiny town of Roanoke.
Eshelman isn’t a traditional farmer, but those pregnant cows were the perfect present because the couple has long had an interest in sustainable local agriculture – foods grown and produced close to home – as well as organic foods. The pregnant cows were part of their ongoing quest for quality foodstuff to serve in their restaurant.
That’s why raising and harvesting American Kobe beef to serve at Joseph Decuis was so enticing.
Kobe beef, which comes from a breed of cattle called Wagyu, is a delicacy in Japan. American Kobe is a cross between Angus and Wagyu cattle, a pairing that creates a tender beef much more suited to American tastes. Joseph Decuis is the only restaurant in the United States that produces its own Kobe beef.
“Wagyu started off as working cattle hundreds of years ago,” says Pete Eshelman who notes that working cattle have the genetic capacity to store fat in their muscle. “So if you look at the beef, because the fat is in the muscle, it creates an intramuscular marbling which adds to the flavor of the meat.”
According to Eshelman, two percent of the beef sold in the U.S. is prime, the most tender of the grades, and Wagyu is on top of that one percent.
From the original herd of 40 cows, the Eshelman now have 113 that they raise on their Heritage Farms, about six miles from the restaurant. The cows give birth each spring (there are accommodating Wagyu bulls who are part of the bovine community).
Spring is also when the offspring are harvested. Because these calves aren’t given drugs or hormones, they have a slow maturation rate and it takes 24 to 36 months for them to grow to the 1750 pounds needed for harvesting. The Eshelman also stress that their cattle are raised in a stress free environment.
Indeed, the farm, located in, seems cozy. The hen house – the Eshelmans, with the help of farm manager John Pulver, also raised free range chickens whose organic eggs are used at the restaurant – is two stories high with plenty of windows and a cute sign on the exterior reading Hungry Fox Inn. The cattle have large pens and plenty of ground to roam, though the pregnant cows seem to mostly just sit. Nearby are the organic gardens where seasonal produce is grown for the restaurant.
Pete Eshelman says that he first became aware of Kobe beef when one of the chefs at their restaurant put it on the menu. The taste was enough to send the Eshlemans down to Texas to meet with a farmer who was raising American Kobe beef. Not long after, Alice received her 40 cows.
Eshelman believes that Kobe beef will soon be going mainstream. But though the taste is rich so is the price. The American Kobe raised at Heritage Farm is used at the restaurant and also sold next door at The Emporium at Joseph Decuis, an exquisite gourmet shop with cookware, ceramics, cookbooks, art, signature coffees and a variety of packaged foods from the restaurant including Gumbo Ya-Ya made with fried chicken, heirloom tomato bisque, quiche, raviolis and more.
Joseph Decuis is an interesting anomaly in Roanoke which has a three block long downtown. A destination restaurant located in an early 20th century bank building (the vault is now the wine cellar), it has an exhibition kitchen, several softly lit dining areas and a large two story solarium with views of the lush New Orleans style back gardens. The name Joseph Decuis is from an Eshelman family ancestor who was from Louisiana and the restaurant's logo is a stylish depiction of Decuis’ signature from his Last Will and Testament in 1818.
The Eshelmans sell their food products by mail and also to further their understanding of raising Kobe beef cows. Peter is going to Japan in April to meet with Kobe farmers.
“We’re hooked,” he says.
Breakout: Glossary for Beef Aficionados
Kobe – Kobe is the name commonly used to describe fine Japanese beef. Kobe is known for its incredible marbling and comes from Japan's Hyogo prefecture, where Kobe is the capital.
Wagyu – Wagyu literally means "Japanese cattle" and is the breed of cattle which produces Kobe beef. Wagyu is so rich it is often sold by the ounce.
Angus – Angus is a breed of cattle that consistently produces well marbled beef and is considered America's finest beef. The best Angus meat is labeled "Certified Angus Beef."
American Kobe – American Kobe is the cross between Angus and Wagyu.
Marbling – Marbling is the density of intramuscular fat which gives beef a superior taste.
Grading System – The USDA has eight levels of grading beef quality. Beef that is typically available in the supermarket is graded "select" or "choice." The highest USDA level is called "prime." About 2% of the beef produced in the United States is "prime." Because "prime" is rare, the majority of this beef goes to fine dining restaurants, and is available through select distributors. American Kobe exceeds the grading of "prime," making it even a more rare delicacy. In Japan Kobe is based on a grading scale between 1 and 12, based on the density of the marbling.
Wet vs. Dry Aging – Wet-aged beef is vacuumed-sealed and aged for up to several weeks which helps tenderize it. Dry-aged beef is hung in a cold, moderately humid space where the beef's enzymes breakdown and tenderize the meat, giving it a unique flavor. In this process the beef loses weight through evaporation as it hangs, which makes it more tasty. Joseph Decuis dry ages their beef for 14 days to maximize tenderness and taste.
Certified Humane – Cattle have access to clean food and water, sufficient protection from harsh elements, and enough space to move around naturally. They receive antibiotics only when sick, and no hormones.
Grain Fed Beef – Beef that is fed a diet primarily of corn after weaning is generally considered grain fed beef.
Typically in the United States, beef are fed a high volume of grain for 60 to 90 days before butchering. In contrast, Joseph Decuis American Kobe beef is raised in a natural environment and fed a special diet, which typically includes corn, until its harvesting at 24-28 months. Their harvesting date is determined by the point in time when the beef reaches its maximum marbling and achieves its greatest taste. The beef is certified humane.
Joseph Decuis is located at 191 North Main Street in Roanoke. 260-672-1715 or www.josephdecuis.com Kobe beef can be mail ordered from their Website or purchased at the Joseph Decuis Emporium next door to the restaurant.
Kobe Beef Recipes from Joseph Decuis
Creole Crawfish Stuffed Kobe Filet Mignon
4 filet mignons (6 ounce)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon finely minced onions
1 teaspoon finely minced green onions
1 teaspoon finely minced celery
2 teaspoons minced shallots
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/4 pound cooked crawfish tails
2 tablespoons chicken stock
2 tablespoons bread crumbs
1 tablespoon Joseph Decuis Creole Seasoning
First, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over high heat. Sauté the onions, green onions, celery, shallots and garlic for 1 to 2 minutes. Next, add the crawfish tails, stock, breadcrumbs and 1 teaspoon of our Creole seasoning and cook for 2 minutes. When this is done, remove from the heat and allow to cool for at least 15 minutes. Using a small sharp knife, cut a slit about 2 inches long into the side of each steak. Make sure to cut about 2 inches in to make a pocket. Season the meat with the remaining Creole seasoning, both inside and out. Stand the steaks on their uncut edges and open the pockets. Using a spoon, fill each pocket with 1/4 cup of the stuffing. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a sauté pan over high heat. When the pan begins to smoke, add the filets and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes on each side for medium rare. This will serve 4 people.
Chargrilled Kobe Hamburger with Wild Mushrooms
4-8oz Kobe hamburger patties
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 C assorted fresh wild mushrooms chopped
(shiitake, morel, crimini, portabella, oyster, etc)
2 cloves garlic (thinly sliced)
salt and black pepper
4 ounces gorgonzola cheese
4 each of your favorite hamburger buns
In a sauté pan set over medium-high heat, sauté the mushrooms with the olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cook the mushrooms until they become just tender. Then, add the garlic and cook for another two minutes. Set this aside for now.
Now, season the hamburgers with salt and pepper. Place on a preheated grill and cook to desired doneness. Top each hamburger with one ounce of the gorgonzola cheese and a quarter of the mushroom sauté. This will serve 4 people.
Bourbon Marinated Kobe Rib eye Steaks
2 large red onions
1/2 c fresh rosemary
1/2 c fresh mint leaves
1/2 c bourbon
1 tb salt
3/4 c balsamic vinegar
2 c tomato juice
8 garlic cloves
1/2 c soy sauce
4 - 16ounce Kobe Ribeye Steaks
Start by combining all of the ingredients for the marinade in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Next, place the ribeyes in a glass dish and pour the marinade over them. Let sit for 2 hours at room temperature, or up to 3 days refrigerated. Grill or broil to desired doneness.
Ragu Bolognese
¼ Cup olive oil
2 medium yellow onions (finely chopped)
4 ribs of celery (finely chopped)
2 large carrots (finely chopped)
6 cloves garlic (minced)
1 pound ground Kobe beef
1 pound ground pork
4 ounces bacon (finely chopped)
1 can tomato paste (6-ounce)
1 cup whole milk
1 cup white wine
1 teaspoon fresh chopped thyme
salt and black pepper
In an 8-quart heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat until hot. Add the onions, celery, carrots and garlic and cook until the vegetables are translucent (but not brown). Now, add the Kobe beef, pork and bacon and increase the heat to high. Brown the meat, taking care to stir frequently. Add the tomato paste, milk, wine, and thyme and bring just to a boil. Then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Make sure to season the ragu with salt and pepper before removing from the heat and letting it cool. This will serve 4-6 people.
--Jane Ammeson
After serving in World War I and getting a college education, Sechler returned to work for Sears and two years later leased two of their pickle stations. He also shipped brine stock to such companies as Heinz. Flash forward to the early 1930s, when Sechler was selling both pickles and relish in wooden kegs and barrels to hotels and restaurants and his wife, Anne, was hand packing pickles for consumers in the couple’s kitchen. 
